A Hands-On Look at the Expansion of the Breguet Marine Collection

15 May

This past year, Breguet decided to concentrate almost entirely on building out its Marine collection. There was, of course, the habitual Reine de Naples inclusion, and two new Classique Extra-Plat models, one with a tourbillon and one without, but there is no doubt that Breguet intends on making the Marine Collection its headliner for 2018. Joining past year's Marchante Équation of Time 5887 are three brand new time-and-date only models, three brand new chronographs, and also three brand new moment repeaters.

The Breguet Marine Marchante Équation of Time 5887
The decision to expand this collection is logical. As a brand that has a lot invested in its own legacy, there's just a lot of tourbillons and double tourbillons you're able to release before collectors decide they want something somewhat less frenetic about the wrist. This expansion isn't just a new look for Breguet; it is tied directly into the history of this brand and its creator, Abraham-Louis Breguet, as well. Way back in December of 1814, a royal decree named A.L. Breguet a part of the Bureau des Longitudes at Paris, a body that comprised astronomers, geophysicists, and physicists. About a year later, in October of 1815, Breguet was christened the official "Watchmaker to the Royal Navy" by King Louis XVIII of France. This was among the most prestigious titles a watchmaker could receive awarded the onerous nature of marine horology. The relationship between Breguet and the Navy continued after Breguet passed 1823 with his son Antoine-Louis continued to signify the marque for decades later.

Abraham-Louis Breguet
Now, onto the watches.

The chronograph models, also called Marine Chronograph 5527, come in 3 distinct case materials: rose titanium, gold, and 18k white gold. The increased- and the white-gold versions feature a guilloché wave theme across the middle of the dial that might be recognizable if you recall the 5887. The titanium version includes a beautiful sunburst slate grey dial.

The minutes counter is at 3 o'clock, the hours counter at 6 o'clock, and also the tiny seconds subdial at 9 o'clock. There's a date window between 4 and 5 o'clock. Each 42-mm model is separately numbered and signed by Breguet. The watch features Roman numerals along with the faceted Breguet hands are made from gold and applied with lume. The caseband is well fluted. The fundamental chronograph seconds hand is motivated by century-old maritime codes. All 3 models include either a rubber or leather strap. In the watches is the self-winding Caliber 582QA which has a 48-hour power reserve and an inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns. In addition, it features a silicon equilibrium spring.

The titanium model is priced at $22,600 and the white and rose gold are priced at $28,700.

Next up, the Marine Alarme Musicale 5547. This moment repeating trio follows the same material and dial design combinations since the chronograph models using a guilloché wave dial to the rose and white gold variations and sunburst slate grey dial for the titanium. At 3 o'clock, there is an alarm subdial and, at 9 o'clock, a time-zone display. You can find the alarm-activation sign in a aperture at 12 o'clock and the date at 6 o'clock. Finally, there is a striking mechanism electricity book between 9 and 12 o'clock. Despite the watch being only 40 millimeters in diameter and also the wide array of indicators and functions on the dial, the watch is surprisingly sober. It never fails to impress me Breguet can enhance its aesthetic in such a consistent manner.

The Breguet Marine Alarme Musicale 5547 in rose gold with a white dial.
Within the watch is the self-winding Caliber 519F/1 with a 45-hour power book, inverted in-lever escapement in silicon, and silicon balance spring. All three models come with either a rubber or leather strap.

The titanium model is priced at $28,600 and the rose and white gold versions are priced at $40,900.

Finally, the Marine 5517 is time-and-date only and comes at the exact same three substances and dial combinations. What is truly eye-catching here is that despite how lovely the guilloché wave dial is, the uncomplicated titanium gray model actually stands out as the sporty alternate for this collection. I'm not proposing you wear your Breguet into the gym, but when there were the opportunity, lightweight titanium would not be the worst option.

The Breguet Marine 5517 in titanium.

Within the watch is your mechanical self-winding Caliber 777A using a 55-hour power book, inverted in-line lever escapement with silicon horns, and silicon balance spring.  For more about watches visit Citizen Nighthawk Gold Dial

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